DAY 8: Monday May 8th 2023 SHEKI – SIGHNAGHI – KVARELI

We departed Sheki at 08:30 and commenced a two hour drive towards Codna which is the town on the Azerbaijani side of the border zone into Georgia.

At the border we presented ‘thank you’ cards and gratuities to Elmar and Ilqar who as our tour-guide and driver for this last week have been so friendly and obliging; we are very grateful for their marvellous efforts in ensuring our time in Azerbaijan was so enjoyable.

Azerbaijan border, Codna

Our guide Elmar & driver Ilqar

The crossing of the border into Georgia went smoothly although it entailed a 500m walk with our bags uphill through the neutral zone between the two countries.

Awaiting us on the Georgian side was our new guide Natia and driver Gela.

Having loaded up our bus we then travelled southwards for an hour to the town of Sighnaghi. This very attractive town is perched on a hilltop facing the snow-capped Caucasus across the vast agricultural region of the Alazani valley.

This 18th and 19th century fortified town has architecture reminiscent somewhat of Tuscany with the added spectacle of a 4km stone wall incorporating 28 watchtowers.

City wall from watchtower at Sighnaghi

View from watchtower at Sighnaghi

Watchtower at Sighnaghi

We had lunch at a prominently positioned wine bar overlooking the city and adjacent to the wall at a point next to the largest of the watchtowers. The extensive range of foods on offer was specifically an introduction to Georgian cuisine and was delectable and complemented by wine degustation.

Lunch at local wine cellar, Sighnaghi

Our wine tasting selection

After this amazing meal we wandered around the town and eventually ended up at “The Pheasant’s Tears” wine bar for some further wine tasting.

Statue, Sighnaghi

Street, Sighnaghi

We found the taste and smell of the typical Georgian wines that are fermented in large underground clay amphoras a little strange and quite different from our Australian wines.

Group with guide Natia at Pheasant Tears Wine Bar

Sign (Gaumarjos means 'cheers') Pheasant Tears Wine Bar, Sighnaghi

Wine amphora, Pheasant Tears Wine Bar, Sighnaghi

We then travelled 2km south to visit the Bodbe Convent which is the revered burial site of St. Nino, a nun of great prominence from the 4th century. Her grave is in a small chapel within a small church built by King Miriam and the tomb is partly silver covered with a bejewelled turquoise halo.

A new and much larger church is presently being constructed nearby within the lovely gardens and lawns maintained by the nuns. We were surprised to see a nun in full black habit plus work boots mowing a large lawn area.

Church, Bodbe

Nun mowing grass, Bodbe

For a further introduction to Georgian wines we travelled to another prominent wine district to visit the Khareba winery. This elaborate winery is located in a tunnel that was built by Russians in the 1950s during the Soviet era. Here we tasted Kakhetian wines made in accordance with local traditions and found them generally more to our liking than most of those tried earlier n the afternoon.

Tunnel winery at Khareba

Wine tasting at Tunnel winery at Khareba

After a unexpected day of travel, over-eating and three separate wine tastings, we adjourned to our hotel Chateau Kvareli for a relaxing alcohol free evening!