We departed our Kvareli hotel at around 09:30 and drove to the site of the late Bronze Age City of Gremi which functioned as the capital city of Kakheti in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries.
Archeological excavations from around Gremi have located various items dated from the first millennium BCE, some of which were on display in the magnificent Church of Archangels built in 1565 which now serves as a museum.
The church is perched high on a hillside overlooking farming land that encompasses large areas of vineyards, grazing land and orchards.
Church of Archangels
The internal walls of the church were adorned with frescoes many of which appeared to be in their original 16th century condition being remarkably well preserved despite a degree of colour fading in the images. Restoration work was apparent in some other sections we observed.
Around the church were a significant number of ‘stray’ dogs, some of which looked quite old and scruffy. We were told that they are all vaccinated, neutered and ear-tagged by the local authorities who provide roadside kennels and encourage locals to feed them!
Our next stop was at the Alaverdi Cathedral which was built in the early 11th century. It is one of the four Great Cathedrals of Georgia and the highest ranking in importance amongst the ancient churches in Georgia.
Alaverdi Cathedral
The Georgian Orthodox Church has played a key role in the restorative process for the cathedral, having established an antiquity repository holding samples of ecclesiastical art, religious icons and manuscripts as well as other Georgian national religious treasures.
After leaving Alaverdi we visited the Ikalto Monastery in Kakheti region of Eastern Georgia.
Our bus outside Ikalto Monastery
During the 6th century reign of King David, the monastery was established by Saint Zenon who was one of the 13 Assyrian Fathers.
The Ikalto Monastery was famous for its Academy and because it was a great cultural and educational centre, it played a key role in the history of Georgian Enlightenment. Apart from its role as a Christian monastery the academy provided education in literature, languages, astronomy and mathematics especially algebra and geometry.
In 1616 the Academy was destroyed by fire resulting from Iranian invaders but rubble and some collapsed stonework remains. Of the three churches associated with the original monastery, only the rebuilt Church Gutaeba remains and that is presently undergoing major structural engineering work internally to prevent its further deterioration.
Ikalto Monastery
Ikalto Monastery Academy
Ikalto Monastery Complex
It now being early afternoon, we headed in to Telavi which is the main city and administrative centre for Georgia’s eastern province of Kakheti. We spent an interesting and entertaining hour visiting the local bazaar where practically every imaginable type of food was for sale. We had lots of amusing interaction with the market people, many wanting to know where we were from and what we liked most about Georgia. Lots of photos were taken and we were often offered samples of food to try as we wandered through this large complex.
Telavi Food Market
Fruit & vgetable stall, Telavi Food Market
Butcher, Telavi Food Market
Fish, Telavi Food Market
Tony photographing lady, Telavi Food Market
The final destination for the day’s activities was to visit the Tsinandali Estate. This is an expansive property established by Prince Alexander Chavchavadze (1786 - 1846) who, apart rom being extremely handsome was a Georgian poet, writer, translator, polyglot, public benefactor, military figure and big landowner. Unsurprisingly he was regarded as the pre-eminent Georgian aristocrat of that era.
His position in society was exemplified by the fact that the Tsar, Alexander III and his Romanov family would spend holidays staying at the Chavchavadze palace.
Palace, Tsinandall Estate
Gardens, Tsinandall Estate
We had an informative guided tour of the Palace House Museum of Chavchavadze now called Tsinandali; grandeur and opulence prevailed throughout.
We learnt that the estate now includes 80 hectares of vineyards and has a flourishing wine production based on European wine making methodology rather than the traditional Georgian technique using terracotta amphoras.
We visited the expansive underground wine cellar and then had a wine tasting session to conclude our visit to Tsinandali. The wines were similar to Australian wines and most enjoyable and our group purchased several bottles of their wine.
Artefacts in original wine cellar, Tsinandall Estate
Original wine cellar, Tsinandall Estate
Wine in original wine cellar, Tsinandall Estate
Wine tasting, Tsinandali Estate
We spent our evening staying in the Hotel Agre in Ruispiri village.
View of Caucasus Mountains from our hotel room, Arge Hotel, Ruispiri Village
Group at dinner, Arge Hotel, Ruispiri Village
This has been a thoroughly entertaining day enjoyed in pleasant sunny conditions with the temperature around 20C.