Buffet at Four Sisters Restaurant, Gondar
Waitress serving honey wine at Four Sisters Restaurant, Gondar
View over Gondar from Goha Hotel, Gondar
Bathing Pool of Fascilidas, Gondar
Old books in Kuskuam Maryam Church Museum, Gondar
Women working on road, Gondar
Ceiling inside Debre Birhan Selassie Church, Gondar
Group photo with Binny, Royal Enclosure
Royal Enclosure, Gondar
Coffee on terrace at Goha Hotel, Gondar
Tailor, Market, Debark
Men fashioning milling wheels, Market, Debark
Market scene, Debark
Having left the Simien Mountains National park we retraced our steps southwards towards Gondar 125 km away.
Being Saturday the local market at Debark was in full swing and we spent an hour or so wandering in amongst the dusty stalls selling mainly farm produce such as beans, tomatoes, onions and all types of grains. We also ventured into a nearby shed where men were trimming and fashioning large concrete milling wheels for the making of flour.
Our second stop was at Kosoye 32 km from Gondar where there is a sweeping view across the lowlands back towards the Simien Mountains. It’s apparently the spot where Queen Elizabeth II instructed her driver to stop so she could take in the spectacular view and enjoy a cup of tea! At this site on the cliff’s edge was a small wooden kiosk selling “traditional” beer. Some of us tried this muddy liquid served in a tomato can, and commented that it was a cross between kava and a sour beer.
We then continued on and at 5km from Gonda we stopped at Wolleka to visit the Felasha Village. The village was originally an enclave of Ethiopian Jews who between 1985 and 1992 were airlifted to Israel by the Israeli government to liberate them from the repressive Mengistu regime. All that remains now is the old synagogue and a few replica “Black Jew” shops selling tourist items, principally clay pottery and associated trinkets.
Our arrival in Gondar after several days in the wilderness was an opportunity to go to the bank and we cashed US$70 for Ethiopian birrs. This involved much writing out of forms with carbon paper and multiple checking by a veritable army of bank clerks all eagre to participate in this ‘major’ transaction.
We then ventured to our hotel (The Goha Hotel) which is situated on a high hill overlooking the city. Incidentally, as is the case throughout Ethiopia the hillsides are almost always forested with eucalypts which grow as spindly but straight trunks, ideal for use as scaffolding in the many buildings being constructed in the country.
The hotel is deceptively attractive with an elegant entrance lobby, dining room and front deck leading to a swimming pool. The rooms don’t quite match the front of house décor but we’re grateful for what appears to be a clean room even if the plumbing is a little dodgy.
After lunch we spent the afternoon visiting various historical sites in Gondar city.
The ‘must see’ tourist attraction in Gondar is undoubtedly the Royal Enclosure. This is a walled compound containing several 17th century castles and associated buildings such as stables and even a sauna. These castles were built during the period of time when Gondar was the capital of Ethiopia. The stonework in these buildings is in remarkably good order except in some areas where it was damaged during WWII and later during the Civil War. The Castles are in spacious grounds with grassed areas between the castles giving one a sense of openness in an otherwise highly crowded city.
Our next visit was to the lavishly decorated Debre Birhan Selassie Church. The inner walls and ceiling are covered with artworks regarded by experts as the finest art of its period anywhere in Ethiopia.
We also visited the Kuskuam Maryam Church which was unimpressive but the adjoining residence of Empress Mentewab which is under restoration was most interesting architecturally as was an associated (mini) museum holding hand written religious texts dating from the sixteen hundreds.
Of similar architectural style as the castles in the Royal Enclosure is the Bathing Pool of Fasilidas. This huge (2800 square metres) swimming pool remains empty except for the Epiphany Festival on January 19th. At this time the local priests convert (?) the water to holy water and worshipers in their thousands come to be blessed!
Our day was completed with a lovely meal at the Four Sisters Restaurant followed by watching some traditional dancing. The features of the meal were injera with a variety of sauces washed down with local honey wine or Dashen beer depending on your taste buds.
Tomorrow we have an early flight to Lalibela to see, amongst other things what many say is the eighth wonder of the world; more to come….