Donkeys & road works machinery, Lake Abaya, Ethiopia, 8 Feb 2014
Dorze lady making bread from false banana palm, Ethiopia, 8 Feb 2014
Dorze people's market, Ethiopia, 8 Feb 2014
Downpour at lunchtime, Sodo, Ethiopia, 8 Feb 2014
We were on the road by 7.15 and our group of ten was now travelling in a convoy of three 4x4s (two Landcruisers and a Nissan). Our first stop was at the small but very busy town of Butajira and then we went on to Hosiana where on the side of the road we viewed teff (a very fine grain) being threshed from its grass like stems by way of ten cattle walking around in circles and using their hooves as threshers. We then headed on to Sodo for lunch at which time it started to pour with rain. This torrential downpour and associated thunderstorm was spectacular in as much it turned dusty roads into mud and dry creek-beds to rivers. As is typical here, the storm was soon over and once again the roads were clogged with cattle and goats being herded to new grazing sites. The roads in Ethiopia are the ‘arteries’ of human movement as well as agriculture and everywhere you go one encounters people, cows, goats, sheep … moving along the roads many of which are in need of repair. There are lots of old Chinese built trucks but relatively few cars and these vehicles are often occupied by tourists. When they see a car coming some of the local children will perform traditional dances on the side of the road. These performances involve hip wagging and “Charleston” knee bending type dances followed by the extended hand begging for a financial reward.
In the later afternoon after five hours on the road we visited a local Saturday market which turned out to be bedlam. We were immediately greeted by several hundred children who crowded around us and shouted with excitement “forens” which we were told means foreigners! The kids were so unruly and wanted to touch us and pinch us which is was quite disconcerting. Adults in the market reprimanded the naughty children but we decided the easiest way to solve this situation was to head off.
After a quick stop at Lake Abaya the rain returned and with fading light we took a very rough rocky mountain road for 15 km up to a village of the Dorze people who live in intricately woven bamboo huts and weave traditional cotton clothes. It was so dark and now raining so heavily that this visit was a bit disappointing. The Dorze people grow a palm that looks like a banana (called a false banana) to extract a pulp from its fleshy trunk to make a fermented bread which we tried with their local honey. The taste was memorable but not inspiring. They also prepare a highly alcoholic drink called arake which makes neat vodka taste like water.
After a very long day we headed for Arba Minch for the Swayness Hotel and a late meal and bed. The room we stayed in was along way from the dining and in the dark we were warned of the presence of hyenas but none was seen or heard!