As we were not due to leave Split until 09:30 it meant we had time to wander around the local area after breakfast and observe the activities of the people going about their morning activities. The most interesting scene was in the nearby fish market where activity was frenetic with fishmongers calling out their wares and prices and potential customers comparing fish size, quality and price of each stall. The most common purchase seemed to be small pilchard size fish that were sold by weight with the fish being poured into weighing containers on a scale and then into bags.
Fish Market, Split
Fish Market, Split
There were unusual species on sale too, namely stargazers, scorpionfish, octopus and all types of molluscs including cockles, whelks and gastropods.
Fish Market, Split
Seagulls at Fish Market, Split
Promptly at 09:30 the 'Connecto Transfers' van arrived at our hotel and the two drivers loaded our bags and we were soon underway heading up the Dalmatian Coast for Pula.
We followed the A1 motorway all the way to Zadar passing through countryside with scrubby trees and little in the way of suitable agricultural ground. The road passed through numerous tunnels the longest of which was just over 6km. The maximum speed on the expressway was 130 km/h but many were travelling even faster than that.
Just north of Zadar we transferred to a minor road (D8) that followed the coast much of the way until we reached Senj where we stopped for a coffee break and to stretch our legs as we’d now been travelling for nearly three hours. The scenery at Senj was magic with a sun lit bay full of small fishing boats and a busy fishing harbour with business being less involved with tourism than most places we’d seen recently.
Harbour, Senj
Our path was then through Rijeka and subsequently back onto the expressway down to Pula.
We arrived at around 15:00 and our very friendly drivers dropped us off at our hotel door after which one of them was due to collect passengers and to drive the five hours back to Split!
Pula is mentioned in ancient Greek despatches in connection with Jason and the Argonauts so its history predates Histri settlements in the 1st century BC. Under the first Roman Emperor Augustus it became an important olive and wine-growing region of the Roman Empire.
Much of the afternoon was then spent in the adjacent and enormous Amphitheatre often referred to as the Arena.
This is one of the best preserved and sixth largest Roman amphitheatre in the world. Arena is 133m long and 105m wide and 32m high at its highest point. It could host up to 20 000 spectators and has the most complete outer wall of any Roman amphitheatre in existence today.
Amphitheatre, Pula, Istria
Amphitheatre, Pula, Istria
Most of the seating has long gone and been used for buildings as far away as Venice.
The middle of the arena would have been filled with sand (arena is Latin for sand) and used for bloody combats between gladiators or gladiators and wild animals such as bears and lions that were housed below the arena. Gladiators were usually luckless prisoners of war.
There is a fascinating museum in an underground region beneath the arena where displays of olive oil presses, wine making vats, amphorae and gladiatorial equipment are on display.
After Rome collapsed the amphitheatre was then used as a market place and for medieval jousting competitions. In recent times, Sting as well as the Three Tenors have performed here in the Arena. It also stages the annual Pula Film Festival although the audiences nowadays can’t exceed 6000.
We then wandered along the waterfront and eventually adjourned for some cool drinks by which time we were ready for an evening meal. A nearby pizza house provided us with a suitable meal and a nice bottle of local merlot.
Harbour, Pula, Istria
Tomorrow we join the cycling group and sleep on our boat that will be home for the next seven days.
We're not sure whether we'll have access to WiFi on the boat so there may not be an update for a few days.