After a 0630 ‘light’ breakfast we all gathered up our camera gear and headed off with our guide Tendayi in the safari truck. For this exploration of the local wildlife we travelled further north-westwards along the road that generally follows the Zambezi.
In this early morning cool air (18°C) there were numerous guinea fowl now scurrying around in the grassy areas next to the road. These birds seek refuge from potential predators at night by perching high in trees and particularly favour trees on the small islands in the river.
During our morning’s safari trip we saw several species of antelope including kudu, waterbuck, impala and bushbuck. A highlight was to encounter a large herd of buffaloes that must have numbered about 200 although herds can sometimes exceed several thousand. These animals are formidable in appearance but are themselves subject to attack from lions and hyenas. When wading and drinking at the riverbank the young calves are open to attack by crocodiles.
Tendayi’s knowledge of animal behaviour and his spoor (animal footprints) identification in the dusty soil usually led to us finding animals that he’d predicted were in the region. We saw much evidence of elephants as their large droppings were easily recognised. The droppings become a source of nutrients for termites and these in turn are then attacked by colonies of voracious ants with an apparently high-powered sting.
Young bull zebras were seen close to the road and Tendayi explained how these bachelor herds split from the main herd during the winter months when no breeding takes place.
There is something very special and unexpected about encounters with giraffe. For our group it always seems to occur in quite densely forested areas where the giraffe’s body patterns blend in so well with the environment. And then, suddenly above the bushes one recognises a gorgeous and quizzical face looking down at you with an expression as if to ask ‘what are you doing here?’ We spent some valued time in close contact with several giraffes in a very remote section of the Zambezi National Park on this morning. Giraffes have an inordinately long blue tongue with it being as long as 40cm in large males. This allows giraffes to lick their ears if they so desire. Their main predator is the lion and their attack is towards the neck to bring the animal down. They keep clear of the giraffe’s rear so as to avoid the deadly kick a giraffe can deliver.
Giraffe
Birdlife was abundant along the river and we managed to get photographs of a number of species including hornbills, weaver birds, bee-eaters, eagles and wagtails.
Brunch at Pioneers Camp
The afternoon session was focussed entirely on a visit to the Victoria Falls. We left camp at around 1100 and Tendayi drove us on the rocky road 21km into the township of Victoria Falls where we arrived a little after mid-day. On the way in he stopped at a huge baobab tree thought to be about 1500 years old.
On arrival at the Victoria Falls Park we paid our park entry fee (U.S.$30 pp) and prepared ourselves for the soaking that everyone had warned us about. We covered our cameras by inserting then in snap-lock plastic bags with a hole cut for the front lens. Raincoats were donned and off we went on a 90 minute stroll along the falls pathway. The immensity of the falls and the noise of the vast cascade have to be experienced to be comprehended.
The rate of flow of water over the falls varies but at this time of the year it is around 4 000 cubic metres of water per second. However, compared to the Congo River’s average flow of 42 000 cubic metres of water per second this is a mere trickle!
The height of the falls is 107m and the width is just under 1.8 km. The depth the water at the top of the falls is about 3m average but by the time this huge volume of water cascades into the narrow gorge below it now averages 30m depth. The geology of the falls and the downstream multiple ‘s’ shaped gorge is phenomenal and makes one want to find out more about the seismic and alluvial forces that have created this fantastic spectacle.
Needless to say we did get a bit wet but the high moisture laden air meant that rainbows were sighted along the way and indeed at one point the humidity was so great that it actually rained. Some sections of the gorge below were so full of mist and spray that one couldn’t see a thing; it was a complete ‘white-out’.
Victoria Falls
Victoria Falla
To then add to the visual feast we did a 15 minute helicopter flight over the falls area. The chopper was a Bell Long Range HDX. The flight enabled us to get a more complete perspective of the multiple sections of the falls and the complexity of the gorge system downstream. The famous arched bridge linking Zimbabwe and Zambia and the hydroelectricity power station were clearly visible too. Although we didn’t see them we were told that people swim in a pool section of the Zambezi River just near the top of the waterfall; totally crazy.
Victoria Falls from helicopter
Victoria Falls from helicopter
From the air it was clear that there are a number of very high-class resorts in both Victoria Falls and across the border in Zambia.
On our way back to Pioneers Camp we encountered a herd (or shyness) of sable. These are Tendayi’s favourite antelope. The typical afternoon temperature was 32°C.
We then came very close to a herd of elephants and one young male put on a display of power for our benefit. We were stationary on the track and he moved towards us and started breaking off pieces of a tree near the truck and displaying his full ears while head tossing and looking at us with disdain. Despite their huge ears elephant do not have very good hearing but their sense of smell makes up for this. Although their skin is 2cm thick in places it is still sufficiently sensitive to notice birds (ox peckers) running along their backs looking for ticks and other parasites.
Near dusk we pulled of the track and parked next to the riverbank for some relaxing drinks and to experience our final Zambezi sunset.
Our night was completed once again with a delicious meal and glasses of wine around the campfire. 5 Star hotels can’t compete with this luxury!
Drinks around the campfire