Oran is the second largest city in Algeria and is located in the north-west of the country on the Mediterranean coast. The major importance of Oran to Algeria is largely due to its commercial and industrial operations in the vicinity. In addition, the deep water harbour provides a close and very convenient contact point to both Spain and France for purposes of trade and tourism.
Oran has a population of just under two million and has its name derived from the Berber words meaning ‘place of lions’. In the period around 900 AD there were sightings of the long maned Barbary lions in the area.
The history of the area is complex although it is thought that Oran was founded in 903 AD by Berber tribes.
The Spanish captured the city in 1509 and held sovereignty spasmodically until 1792 and then Algerian troops with the assistance of the Ottomans took control. This lasted until 1831 when the city fell to the French invaders and then the French held control until 1962 when the Algerians finally defeated the French after a long and deadly war of independence.
As might be expected, this delightful Mediterranean city has numerous examples of architecture showing both strong French and Spanish influence.
Our first tourist visit for the morning was to the Oran Bullring. This is the only arena for bull-fighting in Algeria and it was built by Spanish settlers in 1905 and opened its doors to corrida (Spanish for bull-fighting) in 1910. The arena could hold a maximum of thirteen thousand spectators and corrida occurred on Sundays when typically six bulls were to face the matadors.
Oran Bullring
Although corrida no longer occurs, the magnificent arena is used for other activities such as wrestling and community gatherings. Apparently it can’t be used for music festivals and rock concerts because there’s a mosque nearby and people would complain! Under the grandstand seats are 145 pillars and the spaces between them are used for craftwork and art displays.
Oran Bullring - inside
Oran Bullring - inside
We spent nearly an hour at the arena and had a very pleasant guide called Nora who gave us a comprehensive coverage of the arena’s history.
We then visited the Oran Museum which specialised in natural history. The museum was established in 1891 and has a vast collection of rocks, coins, fossils, insects, shells, fish and birds. Unfortunately the collection appears to have been neglected for many years and many of the animal specimens have deteriorated to the point that they are worthless. This problem has come about by the fact that most specimens have been exposed to natural light and subsequently colours and fine details have disappeared. The fossil collection had not suffered this demise and was most impressive.
A small part of the butterfly & insect collection, Oran Museum
One exhibit that caught our attention was a large lead anchor from the Roman era.
Large lead anchor from Roman period, Oran Museum
The old Oran Railway station which opened in 1913 was our next location visited. The station was designed by French architect Albert Ballu with a modern Moorish style externally and an internal architecture and decor showing the influence of Islam, Judaism and Christianity. We had a most entertaining time chatting with the Station Master who then allowed us to enter a restricted area to take photographs.
The old Oran Railway Station
Inside the old Oran Railway Station
Station Master, The old Oran Railway Station
The old Oran Railway Station
We crossed the road to see the new railway station but there was little of interest in this modern building.
The former Oran Cathedral has been converted into the now named Ben Aouda Municipal Library, but being a ‘library’ is not really its main function. On dusty, ancient shelves there is a jumble of books distributed in seemingly random order around the perimeter of the old cathedral. In the middle of the building are dozens of tables and chairs where school and university students are able to study and work quietly. Students mostly were working in small groups and some appeared to be having specific tutorial assistance. We chatted with some who were facing their Baccalaureate exams for maths and physics in nine days time. We offered them ‘best of luck’!
Ben Aouda Municipal Library
Inside Ben Aouda Municipal Library
Jak talking to students, Ben Aouda Municipal Library
Jak found an English chemistry book, Ben Aouda Municipal Library
We wandered through a market section and saw the usual fruits, vegetables, spices and meats on sale but in an isolated section was a man selling live snails. He had facilities for cooking them and was very keen for us to try his escargots.
Despite his insistence, we declined his offer.
Fish stall in market, Oran
Snails in market, Oran
After leaving the market area we came upon a main square around which were located the Theatre, Town Hall and Post Office buildings. All three were impressive structures, especially the theatre with its Spanish columns, central capital statues and attractive green tiling directly below ‘Comedie, Opera and Tragedie’.
Post Office, Oran
Town Hall, Oran
Bronze lion on Town Hall steps, Oran
Theatre, Oran
The Town Hall is in the process of being refurbished but nonetheless the external architectural features are grand. On either side of the front steps are two large bronze lions, these being Barbary lions from which Oran got its name.
After some delicious creponne icecream (lemon cream sorbet?) we strolled along the high road above the waterfront and looked at the bustling activity in the harbour below. A high density of ferries, cargo ships and pleasure craft were all protected from the open Mediterranean being inside a very long concrete groyne.
Harbour, Oran
Santa Cruz Fortress from the harbour, Oran
For the conclusion of our final day’s sight seeing, Aziz drove us up towards the Santa Cruz Fortress which is strategically placed at the top of l’Aidour Mountain, more than 400 m above sea-level. This fortress, built between 1577 and 1604 was where the Spanish Governor of the time has his headquarters, protected within 2.5 km of surrounding, thick and continuous walls.
The Fortress, Oran
We could not enter the fortress but on the same mountain, just below the fort was the small chapel of Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz. This chapel has recently been refurbished with an attractive tower now having a huge statue of the Virgin Mary on top. We spent some time at this chapel principally because it provided a spectacular lookout point enabling us to have a glorious panoramic view of Oran city and harbour below.
Tower with statue of the Virgin Mary, Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz, Oran
Inside the chapel, Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz, Oran
Statue of Virgin Mary, Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz, Oran
Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz, Oran
Oran viewed from Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz, Oran
Ben Aouda Municipal Library viewed from Notre-Dame of Santa Cruz, Oran
We returned to our hotel Le Palme via the very oldest part of Oran city which, through age and neglect has most of its buildings unoccupied and crumbling into heaps of rubble. New homes will eventually replace these derelict structures.
Tomorrow we have an early start with an 08:00 flight from Oran to Algiers and then the commencement of our long flight home via Doha.