Timimoun is in the Adrar Province of the south-central Algerian Sahara. It is often referred to as the ‘Red Oasis’ due to its buildings, many of which are made from red-mud bricks often with sticks poking out of them; a building technique described as the ‘Sudanese’ style of architecture.
With a population of around forty thousand, Timimoun originally relied on tourism and agricultural activities in the nearby oasis for employment opportunities. This has changed significantly in recent years because of the major oil and gas developments occurring in the Adrar province.
For our introduction to Timimoun’s tourism prominence, we drove to the nearby village of Ighzer to view the ruins of the Ksar of Ighzer.
Before visiting the ksar (castle/fortress) we entered a cave that exists directly under the old castle. With the nearby salt-lake plains there’s a possibility that the ksar was originally close to water and that the cave may have been underwater.
Cave, Ighzer
Cave, Ighzer
Jak inside Cave, Ighzer
This 5th century castle is now in ruins and the red mud-brick rooms are progressively filling with sand blowing off the Saharan dunes all around.
Ksar (castle-fortress), Ighzer
Ksar (castle-fortress), Ighzer
Doorway filling up with sand, Ksar (castle-fortress), Ighzer
We wandered through the narrow streets and alleys and climbed to a high point where a panoramic view was possible despite the dusty atmosphere caused by the famous Saharan sirocco.
Ksar (castle-fortress), Ighzer
Shrine & view from the top, Ksar (castle-fortress), Ighzer
We then drove a short distance to view and learn about the Algerian foggara irrigation system.
This entails a network of underground waterways designed to combat the aridity of the Sahara. Originally developed in Persia (Iran), the irrigation concept was brought back to Algeria by Muslims who had visited Mecca and Persia in the 10th century AD.
Foggara irrigation system
Foggara irrigation system
Deep wells, often to 10 m below ground level were dug to reach artesian water which was then diverted into main underground channels which in turn, divided further to supply gardens and families according to their water demand. This gently sloping gallery of drains was up to 15 km in length and although small in diameter, the space was large enough to accommodate a stooped worker, ‘the water measurer’ who was in charge of maintaining the foggara and drilling holes to direct the water to users.
Wells coming from the desert, Foggara irrigation system
Wells leading to the village, Foggara irrigation system
With the whole system being effectively underground, loss of water by evaporation in the intense Saharan heat was largely avoided. The water supply system is still in operation nowadays although some of the underground channels are now made from PVC and we presume electric pumps have now replaced the ‘water measurer’.
To learn about an alternative style of ksar construction, we drove to Aghlad (or Oulad) to view a number of castles built in the 5th/6th century using grey mudstone clay rather than the more common orange/red clay which dominates the scene with Timimoun’s buildings. The deserted castle we visited was presumably originally occupied by pagan Berbers who then converted to Islam after the arrival of Muslims to the region in the 7th century. We could see the remains of a mosque that had been built outside the walls of the ksar suggesting it was a later addition.
Castle remains, Aghlad village
Mihrab (semicircle where Iman stands for prayer & direction to the kaaba, castle remains, Aghlad village
Castle remains, Aghlad village
Castle remains, Aghlad village
View from castle remains, Aghlad village
The intense heat was obviously felt by a power line worker on the road from Aghlad village to Timimoun who beckoned to us to give him some water.
Man doing maintenance on power pole (he asked us for water), near Aghlad village
On our return to Timimoun city we visited ‘Capterre’ which is the Algerian Centre for the Conservation of Earthen Architecture. Its aim since its establishment in 2012 is to develop strategies for the rehabilitation of mud-brick buildings in Algeria.
Capterre is housed in a former 1920s hotel that has now been converted into general offices and the technical college for students to learn the art and skills of mud brick making and rehabilitation.
Former hotel, now Centre for the Conservation of Earthen Architecture - Capterre, Timimoun
Stucco clay bricks, Centre for the Conservation of Earthen Architecture - Capterre, Timimoun
The hotel has interesting clay patterns on the walls and one of the rooms shows a plaque indicating that the Duchess of Luxembourg stayed there during a Citroen car rally through Algeria in 1926.
Plaque, Rooms occupied by Grand Duchess of Luxembourg, Capterre, Museum
A quick perusal of the local market area followed and then we took photos of the Sudan Gate which was at some point, part of the main city wall. The term sudan does not relate to the country but more correctly it’s a term used to describe black African people.
Sheep outside local market, Timimoun
We returned to our hotel at 13:00 with the temperature in the mid 30s.
View from rooftop of our hotel (Dar Yamama), Timimoun
We had a pleasant lunch break and then had free time until a safari 4x4 tour to see the sunset after 18:00.
In two separate 4x4 cars with no seatbelts, we ventured northwards towards a small village and then followed a sandy track to a point where we stopped and looked for fossils on a stony section of track. There were lots of marine fossils including bivalves, gastropods and some conical invertebrates that may have been ascidians.
Looking for fossils on sand dunes, Timimoun
Fossils on sand dunes, Timimoun
Fossils on sand dunes, Timimoun
We followed the track along the base of a high dune range and then stopped to watch the sunset at a location not far from Ouled Said. To get a better view we clambered up the steep dune slope and then sat and waited. The sunset was disappointing to say the least, with the level of sand dust at horizon level effectively blocking out everything except the pale-yellow ball of the sun. Thankfully the wind had now dropped and conditions were much more pleasant in the cooler evening air.
Corinne & Jak watching the sun set from the sand dunes, Timimoun
Watching the sun set from the sand dunes, Timimoun
Watching the sun set from the sand dunes, Timimoun
Watching the sun set from the sand dunes, Timimoun
The drivers had meanwhile lit a small fire on the sand and boiled water to make tea. This was done in the traditional way of ‘high-pouring’ several times and then adding sugar to quell the bitterness of the very strong brew of tea they had prepared.
Our local guide preparing tea on the sand dunes, Timimoun
Preparing tea on the sand dunes, Timimoun
We drove back to Dar el Yamama and had an excellent evening meal under the stars which struggle to shine through the Sahara’s upper atmospheric dust.
Tomorrow, we begin the final phase of this African odyssey. We fly from the Sahara up to Oran on the Mediterranean coast where we have two days before heading home to Australia.
One point of sadness is that tomorrow we have to part company with our driver Adlene, who despite not speaking much English has become a good friend and much admired companion for the last ten days.