Although the nearest major town to our Farmstay accommodation is Ghardaia, we are actually 50 km south of Ghardaia on the N1 highway.
During breakfast we chatted with one of the farm management team and he informed us that, apart from horses and poultry, they have a dairy herd of around 350 cows but are only milking 55 at the present time. The milk is transported in a tanker to Ghardaia where it’s used principally in cheese and yoghurt production.
Because we knew the afternoon’s temperature would be 40°C or more, we decided to make and early start and head into Ghardaia immediately after breakfast.
Ghardaia is in the M’Zab valley and comprises five main traditional towns (or districts) and is home to the Mozabite people who follow different traditions and customs from the rest of Algeria and are extraordinarily isolated and conservative.
The first neighbourhood we visited was the 11th century City of Ateuf, one of the UNESCO sites. We had a rather overbearing and exceptionally noisy local guide who led us through old and uninspiring alleyways to a high point where the city’s main mosque was located. The minaret, as do all others in Ghardaia had a distinct shape being a tapered square section tower made from stone and rendered with an orange/brown bubble coating which supposedly helps keep things cooler.
Our guide Radwine with the local guide Abraham, Ateuf
Graveyard and minaret, Ateuf
We then wandered down steps past a stony graveyard to arrive at a modest, single storey white mosque. It had three arched openings and no doors, loudspeakers or minarets.
It was built in the 15th century and now is a UNESCO historical site.
White mosque from graveyard, Ateuf
There were enclaves for candles and one that pointed to Mecca. There was a recessed section where an Imam could offer prayers although men and women gathered in different parts of this tiny mosque.
Enclave pointing to Mecca, mosque, Ateuf
Inside mosque, Ateuf
Our visit to Ateuf was quite underwhelming with the district being quite drab and dirty. The people in Ghardaia are known to be incredibly conservative and in Ateuf it was hard to get people to say hello or acknowledge our greetings. The married women are totally wrapped in white robes with there being just a tiny space for one eye to look through. Any greeting we offered to them resulted in an immediate turn away from us and certainly no response.
We passed by the city of Eliqua and then moved on to the next main neighbourhood of Ghardaia called Beni-Isguen. Here we spent time visiting the main market square and associated alleyway souks.
The people in Beni-Isguen were much friendlier than those in Ateuf and we had a pleasant hour wandering through clothing, shoe, carpet, jewellery and food markets.
The food alley was the most interesting with lots of vegetables and fruits on sale including some types unknown to us. The range of spices and olives were especially colourful for photographing and the market salespeople (all men) were happy to have photos taken.
Men asking for their photo to be taken, Market Place of Ghardala Ksar, M'Zab Valley
Olives, Market Place of Ghardaia Ksar, M'Zab Valley
In amongst the food stalls was a butcher’s shop and the owner summonsed us to photograph the camel they had butchered. He proudly presented the camel’s head to us and laughed at our reactions at seeing this grotesque severed head.
Butcher with camel head, Market Place of Ghardaia Ksar, M'Zab Valley
Nearby we saw a giant version of a rabbit trap and asked what it was for. The best answer was that it was for trapping hyaenas as these animals play havoc with local sheep and goat herds.
Hyaena trap, Market Place of Ghardaia Ksar, M'Zab Valley
Men wearing traditional pantaloons, Market Place of Ghardaia Ksar, M'Zab Valley
With the temperature approaching 40°C, we took time out to have cold, freshly squeezed orange drinks and a banana.
We next drove to a high point of a neighbourhood of Ghardaia called Boundora.
Veiled women, M'Zab Valley
The view was impressive but affected by the atmospheric dust now appearing over the city as the wind had picked up and the temperature was soaring.
View from Boundora, Ghardaia
Tapered minaret, Boundora, Ghardaia
Watch Tower on old city wall, Boundora, M'Zab Valley
City Wall, Ghardaia, M'Zab Valley
We decided we’d experienced enough and started our journey back to our Farm Stay home. A fleeting stop at a lookout point on the outward main road enabled us to observe the preponderance of blue and white homes in Ghardaia especially in the Melika section of the city.
Our van at City Wall, Ghardaia, M'Zab Valley
On the way home we also stopped to get diesel fuel for the van. Just for interest sake we recorded the prices per litre and were staggered to see how cheap it was.
View from lookout point, Ghardaia, M'Zab Valley
Diesel is 33 cents a litre, unleaded is 51 cents a litre and LPG is 9 cents a litre. (note: prices converted to Aussie dollars!).
Men with portable fire extinguishers at petrol station, M'Zab Valley
Local man at petrol station, M'Zab Valley
Thus it’s not surprising to see that despite Algeria being amongst the group of ‘rich’ African countries, we have not seen any electric cars since our arrival a week ago. Algeria, we are told has no intention of reducing its reliance on fossil fuels while their reserves are so plentiful and the costs are so low.
Men at gate at Farm Stay, near Ghardaia
Farm Stay, near Ghardaia
Jak, Corinne, Diana and Chris at dinner, Farm Stay, near Ghardaia