Algiers, the capital of Algeria is located on a series of hills overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and is regarded as one of the most attractive cities in North Africa.
It was founded by the Phoenicians in around 800 BC and later conquered by Rome in the second century BC. The Muslims took control in the 8th century AD.
During the 19th century it was a notorious haven for the pirates of Barbary, prompting intervention and the annexation of Algeria by the French as one of numerous examples of European colonial involvement in Africa.
Present day Algeria has independence having fought a violent war against France from 1954 until the March 1962. The population of Algeria is 45 million and that of Algiers is about four million.
Our first full day in Algeria commenced with meeting our guide Moncef and our driver Adlene. We then drove westwards from Algiers following close to the coastline for about 70 km passing through prosperous agricultural areas with fertile red soil. There were a large number of plastic covered ‘green-houses’ with tomatoes, pumpkins and capsicums being the principal crops grown under cover. Large areas of potatoes, grapes and climbing beans were common too as were the extensive areas of barley cropping.
Greenhouses along shores of the Mediterranean Sea, between Algiers & Tipasa,
Farmland viewed from Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
We then made a stop at Sidi Rached to view the Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania.
Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania
This mausoleum, built on a hilltop in 3 BC is the tomb where the Numidian Berber King Juba II and Queen Cleopatra Selene II were allegedly buried. However, their human remains are no longer at the site as the burial chamber has in the distant past been repeatedly ransacked by looters looking for treasures. Our guide informed us that Queen Cleopatra Selene II was the daughter of Pharaoh Queen Cleopatra VII and Roman General Mark Antony and that she was sovereign of Mauretania Caesariensis. This was the part of North Africa stretching from Morocco to Libya controlled by Rome at the time and should not be confused with the present day African country of Mauritania which has different spelling!
The 36 m high mausoleum is circular with a diameter of about 60 m and built entirely from large sandstone blocks. The top was originally hemispherical or pyramidal and had a white limestone covering like the Great Pyramids at Giza.
The structure is architecturally grand with 10 m high Corinthian topped columns every four metres around the perimeter. There are four vast doorways (no longer accessible) located at the four cardinal compass points. One of the doors has a large carved cross on it indicating the north facing door and has nothing of Christian significance.
North facing door, Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
Column and entrance, Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
Column and entrance, Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
Scrolls on pillar, Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
Engraving on stone showing cardinal points of Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
This was a most unexpected and spectacular visual feast.
Corinne, Jak, Chris and Diana, Royal Mausoleum of Mauretania, Sidi Rached
We then moved on to the harbour township of Tipasa and visited the small archaeological museum where there were some impressive Roman mosaics and items recovered from the nearby Roman township.
Mosaic, Archeological Museum of Tipasa
Amongst the treasures we saw were fine crockery and glassware plus marble sculptures. Especially prominent were the sculpted head of the god Jupiter and a 5000 year old plaque representing the Punic god Tanit.
Sculpted head of the god Jupiter, Archeological Museum of Tipasa
Roman glass jar, Archeological Museum of Tipasa,
A large floor mosaic, now on the wall of the museum showed praying Christians facing execution by the Romans.
Mosaic, Archeological Museum of Tipasa
We then spent the next two hours on a walking tour visiting the archaeological site of Tipasa.
Tipasa was an ancient Punic trading post, conquered by Rome and turned into a strategic base for its control of Mauretania. It became a Christian site after the 4th century AD.
The architectural and archaeological vestiges of Tipasa are extensive and we started at the amphitheatre built in the 3rd century AD. We were able to see enclosures for gladiators to prepare for fighting and tunnels used to introduce wild animals like tigers into the arena.
Amphitheatre of Tipasa
Amphitheatre of Tipasa
Area where gladiators entered the arena, Amphitheatre of Tipasa
We then moved on to the New Temple given this name by archaeologists as it was built after the adjacent temple called the Anonymous Temple! The New Temple has a magnificently paved court with stairs and porticos and there are the remains of an apse.
New Temple, Tipasa
The Decumanus Maximus road passes between the two temples and is a major, paved highway going east – west whereas Cardo Maximus runs north – south descending towards the sea. There was a ‘triumphant arch’ at the intersection of these two Roman roads but it was destroyed as was some of the road’s paving after an earthquake and tsunami in the 7th century.
Crossroads of main city, Tipasa
Near one of the main gates we then came upon an elaborate circular platform that once housed the ‘Fountain of the Nymph’ where the fountain’s water pressure was achieved by ingenious hydrological procedures involving venturis. Aqueducts brought in water and even 2000 years ago most houses in the Roman town had a water supply as well as some basic form of wastewater/sewerage management.
Fountain of the Nymph, Tipasa
The next site we visited was ‘The Theatre’ where performances were held in front of semi-circular, forty five levels of tiered seating holding up to 3000 people. The plays were usually performed at night when people were tired and more easily persuaded by the themes of the plays which were often ones involving brainwashing the populace with Roman propaganda.
Theatre, Tipasa
One of the visual splendours of our walking tour was the Roman Catholic Church of Bishop Alexander built in the 3rd century. It has four elegant arches still standing and impressive mosaic floors with the building perched on a platform overlooking the Mediterranean.
Roman Catholic Church of Bishop Alexander
Roman Catholic Church of Bishop Alexander
View of coastline from Roman Catholic Church of Bishop Alexander
Our visit was completed with brief encounters with a Roman gymnasium, a dolium (large jars) grain store and the remains of a very luxurious home.
Dolium (jars for grain)
Villa de Frescoes
We walked back to the van via the coastline and then after some refreshments headed back home to Algiers.
We have had a most interesting and informative first day in Algeria and are so impressed with our guide Moncef who has a wonderful knowledge of the history but also gives us plenty of time to wander around individually photographing things and taking it all in.