Instead of retracing our steps and using the Roman causeway to leave Djerba, we drove to the ferry terminal at Ajim on the southeastern corner of Djerba and caught the ferry. This shortened route to our destination of Sousse will save about one hour’s road travel today.
This large vehicle ferry when fully loaded with buses, trucks, cars and motor bikes left the dock and headed across to the nearby mainland port of Jorf, a trip that took about half an hour.
Our van on the ferry from Ajim on the southeastern corner of Djerba to Jorf on the mainland
Leaving Ajim, Djerba
Fishing boat between Ajim and Jorf
Approaching Jorf on the mainland
Once at Jorf, we joined the P1 highway and started our journey north towards Gabes, with our first stop being at Mareth.
Mareth was a significant battle site during the Second World War and there is now a military museum located there.
The Mareth Defensive Line Museum relates to the Battle of Mareth in Tunisia where the British Eighth Army led by General Bernard Montgomery attacked the Mareth Line held by the Italy-German First Army led by Giovanni Messe. With reinforcements, Montgomery undertook a ‘flanking attack’ and on the 31st March 1943 the Germans were forced to retreat in what was to be the start of their eventual defeat in North Africa.
At the museum we initially watched a short documentary on the Battle of the Mareth Line and then looked at mostly WW 2 military equipment such as Rommel’s Volkswagen, British motorbikes and an extensive range of armoury including machine guns, rifles, pistols and canon. We also went inside one of the underground bunkers which were part of original Mareth Line fortifications built by France in the late 1930s during their war against Italy who occupied Libya at that time.
Rommel's Volkswagon, Mareth Defence Line Museum, Mareth
Bunker, Mareth Defence Line Museum, Mareth
German heavy cannon type 15-Schwere Feldhaubitze 18 weapon, Mareth Defence Line Museum, Mareth
After two hours of travelling north on the P1 highway through an uninspiring desert landscape we reached the El-Jem Amphitheatre in the former Punic town of Thysdrus. After the Third Punic War, Thysdrus declared itself to be on the side of Rome and was awarded the status of being a free town. In the mid 3rd century AD El-Jem became a Roman colony and was amongst the richest towns in Roman Africa.
Chris, Corinne, Jak and Diana, El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
The most significant and historic relic of El-Jem is the amphitheatre. Built between 230 and 238 AD this absolutely magnificent structure, modelled on Rome’s Colosseum is the third largest Roman amphitheatre and the best-preserved Roman relic to be found in Africa.
The 36 m high structure is elliptical in shape being 148 m x 122 m and had a seating capacity of approximately 30 000.
El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
We spent an hour wandering along corridors, up stairways and in amongst elaborate systems of pillars and arches. The radiating walls built from large sandstone blocks bear the vaults that support the tiers of seats, stairs and galleries.
El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
El-Jem Amphitheatre, Thysdrus
The grandiose façade is composed of three storeys of 64 arcades each with the semicircular arches adorned with imbedded Corinthian columns.
Underneath the central arena we found numerous rooms and were informed that these were for housing the gladiators, prisoners and wild animals such as lions and tigers all of whom played some part in the often gruesome events to entertain the masses.
The visit to this architectural marvel of El-Jem has undoubtedly to be an occasion that will be etched into our memories for many years to come.
After El-Jem we visited the town’s Archeological Museum which is housed in one of Tunisia’s best-preserved Roman villas called the House of the Peacock and Solertiana.
The main exhibits were Roman mosaics, sculptures and ceramics.
Courtyard, House of the Peacock and Solertiana
Mosaic representing the triumph of Bacchus, House of the Peacock and Solertiana, Thysdrus
Inside the House of the Peacock and Solertiana, Thysdrus
The mosaics were particularly impressive and in most cases they were obtained from excavations carried out in the section of the city where ancient Thysdrus once existed.
Dovecote, House of the Peacock and Solertiana, Thysdrus
We then completed our day by driving through much richer farming area where there were olive trees extending on both sides of the road as far as the eye could see. Our destination was Sousse and the Movenpick Hotel where we said farewell to Samir who has been our wonderful guide for these past twelve days.
View from our Movenpick Hotel room, Sousse
Tomorrow, we move on to Algeria and begin a new phase of this amazing North African adventure.