We started the morning with a short visit to a troglodyte home in Matmata that has been partially converted into an hotel and also a tourist site. The cave houses in this location have special significance because George Lucas, the creator of ‘Star Wars’ decided that they would be ideal sites in which to film some scenes from the movie.
The location has been made a bit too touristy now but there are sufficient remnants of props from the movie and the physical surrounds to bring back distant memories. The ‘bar’ scene from the first Star Wars movie was filmed right here.
Star Wars Hotel where bar scene for Star Wars No 1 was filmed, Matmata
Bar at Star Wars Hotel where bar scene for Star Wars No 1 was filmed, Matmata
On the road to Medenine we stopped at a high viewing point to look down on the small ancient town of Toujan at which we then later stopped. This half deserted village lies below the ruins of a kasbah (fortress). It has flat roofs of olive wood and walls made with brown cemented stones. The village is terraced on the side of a quite steep hillside.
Toujan from viewing point on hill above
Olive grove, Toujan
Terraced farmland, Toujan
Jak suggesting where the problem is with the door which wouldn’t open despite efforts with a hammer and trowel! Toujan
Toujan
Goats inside house compound, Toujan
We then continued and made a stop at Tozeur. This ancient town is centred on a beautiful oasis and with its four thousand palm trees has the reputation for growing the best dates in Tunisia.
A short distance from Tatauoine is the small two thousand year old village of Ksar Haddada (Hedada) with its superbly restored ksar (fortress granary) near the village centre.
George Lucas used this place as a location for the Star Wars prequel, ‘The Phantom Menace’.
Ksar Hedada (Granary), Used to film Star Wars - The Phantom Menace (shot in 1997)
Hotel Ksar Hedada,
At Hedada we explored the maze of stairways, terraces and courtyards and peered into many granary niches known as ghorfas. In one ghorfa we found an ancient olive press involving a large conical stone revolving on a flat stone top.
Ancient olive press, Ksar Hedada
Diana, Chris, Jak and Corinne, Ksar Hedada
We next made brief stop at the nearby location of Taquet Hamed. This site has small but distinct images of animals drawn in red coloured rock on the underside of a sandstone cliff ledge. The prehistoric images are estimated to be about 20,000 years old and depict a horse and a bull.
Rock paintings at Taquet Hamned, near Ksar Hedada
Cave with Rock paintings at Taquet Hamned, near Ksar Hedada
The scenery in this southern Tunisian area is quite stark and barren with brown rocky plains leading across to jagged clay coloured mountains. The geology is fascinating with some layers of rock having been eroded differently forming natural terraces and eroded mountain tops, leaving only flat peaks and mesas.
Hills near Ksar Hedada,
Village of Germassa
Mosque, Village of Germassa
Village of Germassa
With Tataouine as our central base we then visited a number of nearby ancient historical sites including Germassa and Chenini. We were informed that Tataouine provided the name for Luke Skywalker’s mythical and wind-blown home planet of Tatoone.
Chenini is a 2000 year old Berber village which occupies a scenic position on a high mountainside with panoramic views out over the dry, rocky plains of southern Tunisia. The comparatively steep 300 m climb to our lookout point was well worthwhile despite the 32°C conditions we faced.
Chenini Village,
Chenini Village,
Chenini Village,
We stopped for a lunch break at Douiret and to earn our repast we had another climb up a steep pathway for about 200 m. The meal was tomato soup, vegetable pasties, green salad, goat meat and couscous and finally fresh fruit. It was a most enjoyable break.
View from restaurant, Douiret
Then the highlight of the day was to occur when we visited Ksar Ouled Soltane which is 20 km south of Tataouine. This the best preserved and most interesting fortified village in Tunisia. It is still used to store grain and olives and is inhabited by Ouled Chehida tribesmen. The site is surrounded by defensive walls and consists of over 300 granaries (ghorfas). The ghorfas rise to four storeys and are set around two courtyards linked by a narrow corridor made from palm wood. The stairs leading to the higher levels are steep with no handrails and some have turns making for precarious ascent and especially descent. The oldest section dates from the 15th century and is in truly remarkable condition. We found this encounter to be one of the very special highlights of our travel adventure so far!
Corinne and Jak, Ksar Ouled Soltane
Ksar Ouled Soltane
Ksar Ouled Soltane
Ksar Ouled Soltane
The remainder of our travel for the day was now the two hours heading northwards towards Ajim and then across the Roman built causeway to the island of Djerba.
View from Roman built causeway to the island of Djerba,
Our next two nights will be here on Djerba island staying in the rustic Dar Dhiafa hotel.