Our Ras Ain Hotel had four bus-loads of guests staying last night and we were fearful that breakfast this morning would be a super bun-fight as was dinner last night. However, luck was with us and at 07:15 there were only four guests in the breakfast dining area.
At 08:30 we met Ridah our 4x4 driver for the morning’s session to visit various locations around Tozeur.
We went about 50 km northwest from Tozeur and made our first stop at the Berber town of Chebika which is not far from the border wth Algeria. Chebika is one of the best known Tunisian mountain oases and until the 19th century was a major caravanserai for traders coming from central Africa to the Mediterranean coast. During Roman times it was used as a military fort where legionnaires had high sentry posts located on the Atlas Mountains that are just behind Chebika.
Chebika
Original village, Chebika
This oasis occurs because there are bountiful springs that provide fresh water for human usage and for the growing of date palms. Dates seem to be the main produce although other fruits and vegetables were apparent too.
Firstly, we climbed up a fairly steep pathway to a high point which gave us a panoramic view over the town and its oasis.
Chebika Oasis
Chebika Oasis and village
Mountain above Chebika Oasis
Then on descending via a different path we reached the point where the crystal clear spring water appears out of crevices at the base of the mountain.
View of the spring from the mountain
We then followed this small stream back to the township and on the way took photos of where the stream cascades over a small waterfall. The concept of a waterfall in the Sahara was a cause for contemplation.
Spring, Chebika Oasis
Stream in gorge, Chebika Oasis
Chebika has developed a nearby phosphate mine and together with the onset of mass tourism, customs and traditions have changed in recent times and are a concern for locals.
We then drove a little further northwest to the next oasis of Taemaghzah.
Taemaghzah
Taemaghzah is known as the ‘hanging balcony overlooking the Sahara Desert’.
On arrival we chatted with a local man who showed us both male and female date palm plants and pointed out the differences in the palm leaves (fronds).
At Taemaghzah we descended to the oasis valley and once again encountered a waterfall of around 10 m drop although the water flow was not great. Further walking down the stream led us to a branch and we entered the Taemaghzah Canyon. This narrow and high canyon featured in one of the Indiana Jones’ movies. It was somewhat reminiscent of the Siq canyon on entry to the Treasury at Petra.
Gorge, Taemaghzah
Canyon, Taemaghzah
The town of Taemaghzah replaces the old town that was destroyed by flood waters in 1969. The old village was visible from a high viewing point and appears to be mostly ruins.
Old town of Taemaghzah
On leaving Taemaghzah we headed south and then left the main road and went onto a rough and sandy Saharan track. We drove for about 30 km in 40°C temperature with dust and sand making visibility of the track an issue. In several sections we climbed steep dunes and enjoyed the ‘free fall’ descent on the other side. This road(?) was part of the Paris to Dakar rally track in past times before it moved to Saudi Arabia. One prominent and high rocky area we passed featured in the movie ‘The English Patient’.
Area where part of the movie The English Patient was filmed
Our driver Ridah and Land Cruiser in the area where part of The English Patient was filmed
In the middle of nowhere we then came across a semi-abandoned film set used by George Lucas in the production of one of the Star Wars movies. It is now a tourist centre offering camel rides, minerals, fossils and the usual bits and pieces.
Area where part of Star Wars movie was filmed
Robots used in the first Star Wars movie
We were intrigued to see the Star Wars’ buildings, homes, robots and other remaining movie fragments many of which were made from plywood, canvas and plaster of Paris.
We then returned to Tozeur but before doing so we made a brief stop at Corneille where the panoramic view over the township was sadly affected by the dusty atmosphere.
Panoramic view over Corbeille through sand storm
We had a relaxing afternoon with free time until 18:00 when activities recommenced.
Our driver dropped us off at the entrance to the Tozeur Medina and we then spent the next hour or so wandering around the alleyways observing Tunisian night life and especially the 14th century high building walls made of distinctive handmade, yellow clay bricks. Apparently, 600 years ago there was a directive to all Tozeur home owners that they must incorporate at least a façade of the yellow bricks on all of their properties.
We then moved on to visit the private museum Dar Cherait which is devoted to Tunisia’s history with vivid displays of animal and human activities over the countless millenia. The section we visited transports visitors, with a loud English commentary through the history of Tunisia from the time of the dinosaurs and early humans to the Berber and Roman periods, the Muslim occupation and then chronologically through to more modern aspects of Tunisian life. The visual displays and the explanations offered were very well done and the visit proved most informative.
Exhibition inside Dar Cherait Museum of the Arts, Tozeur
Out evening finished with a special traditional Tunisian meal served to us in the Tozeur oasis where we were the only guests. Our delectable meal was enjoyed under date palms with a waxing moon above. The lamb main course was superb and supplemented by a tasty rosé.
Corinne, Diana, Chris and Jak at dInner table in oasis, Tozeur
We were back at our hotel by ten and preparing for another busy day tomorrow when we visit Douz and Matmata.