We awoke to an amazing sunrise.
Sunrise from our bedroom window, Riad Mimouna overlooking Atlantic Ocean
Breakfast at Riad Mimouna overlooking Atlantic Ocean, Essaouira
Having checked out of the Riad Mimouna, it was very fortunate that the hotel porter had already communicated with Chahine and knew where to meet him with our luggage. The pathway we took to the van, involved a number of left, right and left again, type turns along the alleyways covering a distance of half a kilometre or more. At this time of the morning, 09:30 businesses were setting up goods for display and locals were breakfasting and discussing business plans for the day ahead.
Our travel for the day involved driving north along the coast road to Casablanca, a total distance of 378 km with plans to stop about halfway for a rest break and drinks.
The first part of the drive on R301, followed the coastline closely but from an elevated position which gave us an expansive view across the hinterland and the expanse of the Atlantic Ocean.
Coastline, Essaouira to Casablanca
Coastline, Essaouira to Casablanca
For many kilometres the road alternated between barren and rocky hillsides with no possibility of farming, to low lying, lush green areas where agriculture was thriving, no doubt due to the availability of artesian water. The crops in these oases were principally corn, alfalfa (lucerne) and wheat.
Coastline, Essaouira to Casablanca
Coastline, Essaouira to Casablanca
Coastline, Essaouira to Casablanca
Thermal power station on road south of Safi
The first major population area we encountered was the city of Safi which has been an important Moroccan port since the 16th century.
Approaching Safi
The city is now a major phosphate processing and exporting centre producing ‘superphosphate’ from the phosphate rock brought in by rail in from eastern Morocco. In close proximity to this phosphate industrial plant is a relatively new but super large, thermal coal powered electricity station.
Phosphate factory, Safi
Safi was once famous as a fishing centre, specialising in the processing of sardines caught in the ocean adjacent to the port. Morocco used to produce half of all the sardines sold worldwide, but with changing climate conditions, favourable fishing areas are now located further south. Sardines thrive in warmer waters and in recent years the cold waters of the North Atlantic have pushed further southwards, causing the major shoals of sardines to be now found off the coast of Western Sahara.
Safi is also known as the centre for producing the best pottery items for sale in Morocco. The highly regarded quality of the pottery products from Safi is not only due to the exceptional workmanship but also because the clay used contains no measurable level of lead compounds. This makes the ceramic wares such as crockery and drinking vessels, safe for food handling.
A little further north we passed through the town of Oualidia, which takes its name from sultan El-Oualid who built an impressive kasbah here in 1634. The rather unattractive town centre leads through to a safe swimming and surfing beach on the edge of semi-protected lagoon attached to the Atlantic. The town also is an important centre for oyster farming although we did not stop to sample any of these aquatic local treats.
Further up the coast road we had a ‘pit-stop’ at the industrial city of El-Jadida which has a population of just under a quarter of a million. It, like Safi has a major phosphate processing plant and a coal fired thermal power station. Despite the hazy and smoky atmosphere, the harbour is impressive with its historic sea walls and the long groyne. This massive rock structured barrier extends northwards, parallel to the coast and, for the shipping and fishing fleets in the harbour, it offers protection from the prevalent and persistent swells delivered by the mighty Atlantic Ocean.
Safi harbour and groyne
Fishing boat, Safi
We enjoyed a refreshing drink at a high observation point overlooking the Safi harbour and were able to count about ten large container ships waiting out to sea before loading with the processed superphosphate.
In the remaining 75 km to Casablanca there was a significant change in coastal scenery with the soil becoming more fertile and water availability improved.
Seaside resorts & crops north of El Jadida
Seaside resorts & lagoon north of El Jadida
The horticultural emphasis was now on the growing of tomatoes, melons, cabbages and cauliflowers and we passed these small but highly productive farms for many kilometres. We then come upon a number of sea-water filled rectangular ponds that turned out to be evaporation areas for salt production.
Evaporation areas for salt production, south of Casablanca
Crops north of Oualidia
Sand dunes, crops and salt ponds south of Casablanca
For the final hour of what was to be the completion of our fourteen-day circuit of Morocco, we drove in through the outskirts of Casablanca and eventually reached our hotel, the Val D’Anfa, which we’d stayed in two weeks ago.
An evening meal of seafood paella was absolutely superb as was the opportunity for a beer and a glass of wine after nearly two weeks of abstinence from alcohol.
Paella meal for 2
Tomorrow, we say farewell to this amazingly interesting country and fly to Tunisia where we’ll meet up with our very good friends, Diana and Chris Penhall and continue this extraordinary North African adventure with them.