Before leaving Tbilisi we had the opportunity of making contact with Niko, our Caucasian tour manager. He visited our hotel after breakfast and it was nice to meet him and to discuss the tour package he’d arranged for us three years ago, before the onslaught of Covid. We complimented him on all facets of the Caucasus visit so far.
Niko (our local travel agent) & Diana at Hotel Citrus, Tbilisi
As it was now foggy and raining quite steadily, we left Tbilisi and headed out of the city without delay and drove to Mtskheta an hour north of Tbilisi.
This township has been the religious centre for Georgia since Christianity was established here in about 327 AD.
On arrival, we put on raincoats and walked up the hillside to Jvari Church (The Cross Church). To many Georgians it is the holiest of holies, as it stands where King Miriam erected his famous wooden cross and over which this church was constructed in the period 585-604 AD by the Duke of Kaitli.
Jvari Church (The Cross Church), Mtskheta
View through the mist from Jvari Church (The Cross Church), Mtskheta
Jak at Jvari Church (The Cross Church), Mtskheta
The church is an attractive structure being a symmetrical cross shape with four side rooms and a low dome sitting on a squat octagonal drum. In the very centre is a large carved wooden cross standing on an ancient stone plinth.
Jvari Church (The Cross Church), Mtskheta
Inside Jvari Church (The Cross Church), Mtskheta
As the rain had practically stopped we moved on the nearby Vetitskhoveli Cathedral which is surrounded by souvenir shops and the usual tourist attractions.
Souvenir shops on way to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta
This enormous Cathedral dates from the 11th century, early in the age of Georgian Christian architecture. There are numerous stone carvings both inside and outside the cathedral and Christ’s robe is believed to lie beneath the central nave, under a square pillar decorated with colourful frescoes.
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta
Frescoe depicting the Zodiac sign inside Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta
Priest Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta
It surely is a spectacular and awe inspiring structure and the internal adornment and decorations are breathtaking.
From a tourist shop in Vetitskhoveli, Corinne purchased a silver pendant featuring a central green piece of amazonite inlaid into mother of pearl; a most attractive piece of jewellery.
Our travels now required a steady climb towards the Caucasus Mountains up ahead. On reaching the Zhinvali Dam and hydro-power station, we took time to stretch the legs and view the expansive reservoir below. This lake is one of the principal sources of drinking water for Tbilisi.
Zhinvali Reservoir
We then continued our ascent on the so called ‘Georgian Military Highway’ and for our next stop visited the Ananuri Castle, Churches and Fortress. This overlooks the Zhinvali Reservoir from a point on the western arm of the lake.
Ananuri Castle
The fortress has its origins in the 13th century with the two churches inside having been built in the 17th century. The frescoes in the Church of the Assumption are vivid although their colours may have been ‘slightly’ enhanced. The fortress towers appear ancient, as dilapidation is apparent in places and as such, a walk along the battlements appeared hazardous. We bypassed this opportunity.
Ananuri Castle
Ananuri Castle
Mural inside church, Ananuri Castle
Mural depicting Hell! Ananuri Castle
We continued upwards towards Gudauri, the highest town on the Military Highway at 2200m above sea level. This is a popular ski resort area from Christmas to April but it was less than appealing for us on our visit due to thick fog and rain. The so called highway at this altitude is a quite narrow, uneven and rutted surface involving many tight hairpin corners. On either side of the road were very high mountains covered in snow and having numerous glaciers.
Snow on the side of the road near Gudari
Glaciers beside the road near Gudari
Highest point we recorded (2375m) on Military Highway
One extraordinary feature of this location is that the ‘highway’ is one or the main access roads into Russia and is used by vast numbers of semi-trailers who negotiate this inadequate route. They bring goods into Russia from Georgia, Armenia and even Iran and Turkey.
Many of these big trucks wait on the side of the highway seeking formal permission to enter Russia which is subject to negotiations often necessitating ‘financial’ incentives to gain border access. Trucks may wait up to a week or more before crossing into Russia.
Consequently, on our travels on the Highway we passed about 10km (!) of parked trucks. We wondered how the drivers coped personally with such extensive delays and the effects on perishable goods being transported.
Incidentally there was a steady stream of large trucks going the other way, presumably leaving Russia, the border being only 30km away.
We finally arrived at Stephantsminda and transferred in to two 4WDs to take the mountain road up to Gergeti Tsminda Sameba Church.
Gergeti Tsminda Sameba Church, Stephantsminda
Gergeti Tsminda Sameba Church, Stephantsminda
In freezing conditions, with wind and rain, we walked up from the car park to the church but our enthusiasm for matters ecclesiastical was waning and our desire to find our accommodation and rest, got the better of us and thus our visit was fairly short. The so called ‘spectacular views’ from this high point were shrouded in misty rain and fog.
Snow-capped mountains from Gergeti Tsminda Sameba Church, Stephantsminda
Jak with ‘jeep’ at Stephantsminda
Gergeti Tsminda Sameba Church from Stephantsminda village
We next had hot soup in a café in Stephantsminda and then moved into the InTourist Hotel in nearby Kazbegi.
This has been our first wet day on our travels, and as it entailed a lot of time on the road, we didn’t miss out on so much but hopefully tomorrow will bring clearer skies.