The great Botswanan leopard hunt now continues into week two and our hopes of seeing one diminish as today is our last full day here. There is some cause for optimism as our next destination being Kwando Lagoon is reputed to offer a good chance of seeing leopards.
Nonetheless our morning’s safari for six hours from 06:00 to mid-day proved to be very productive particularly in obtaining shots of a number of birds we’d previously not seen.
A pair of African hawk eagles was our first new species sighted. We managed to get reasonably close to the dead tree on which they perched and could watch as one of the eagles devoured some prey (a squirrel?) by ripping it to pieces with its powerful beak. Nearby, helmeted guinea fowl squawked and scurried into the dense undergrowth fearful of these eagles above them.
African hawk eagle with prey
African hawk eagle
We then encountered a herd (dazzle) of about ten Burchell’s zebras. Typically, such a dazzle would include mares and foals with a single stallion. Stallions that are yet to collect mares form a bachelor herd that will be attacked if it ventures too close to the main breeding dazzle. The bachelor herd then maintains a position on the periphery which has a benefit of offering protection to the herd.
Zebra
Zebras
A male and female double-banded sandgrouse then ran across the sandy track in front of the truck but we were able get photos before they disappeared into the thick grass. On the top of a dead stump close by was a tree squirrel basking in the early morning sunshine. It quickly moved and hid in the hollow stump when we approached.
Double-banded soundgrouse (male)
Tree squirrel
Birds were now becoming increasingly active as the morning warmth had caused insects to start moving and flying. The birds seen included namaqua doves, grey go-away birds, red billed francolins (now called spurfowls), a white-backed vulture, jacanas, buffalo weaver birds and kingfishers.
White-backed vulture
Little bee-eater
Long-tailed starling
Giraffes were grazing in the distance but were really too far for worthwhile photos. Later in the morning we did get considerably closer to a lone giraffe but even he had his head partially hidden within the tree top where he was eating.
Undoubtedly the highlight of the morning occurred when we managed to establish a fixed position only a short distance from a pond where water birds were busy feeding.
Hamerkop
Common sandpiper
Birds on pond
Jak photographing birds
We counted fourteen different bird species in this tight location and a reed buck joined in the foreground too.
Reed buck
Reed buck
The largest birds present were yellow billed and woolly-necked storks together with spur-winged geese.
Yellow-billed stork
Woolly-necked stork
There were four species of egrets, namely a great egret, many little egrets, black egrets and rare slaty egrets. The black egrets have a remarkable hunting technique. They crouch over the water and extend their wings in front of them to form a black umbrella. This provides a shadow making the sighting of small fish somewhat easier.
Slaty egret
Black heron
Black heron with umbrella
Other water birds present were jacanas, a long-toed lapwing, many sacred ibis, hammercop, a squacco heron, a common sandpiper and a pied kingfisher. We spent about an hour in this twitchers’ paradise!
Sacred ibis
Sacred ibis & Great heron
Spur-winged goose
Pied kingfisher
Birds at waterhole
After a coffee break under a leadwood tree we commenced our homeward travel but were seriously delayed by bee-eaters and lilac rollers.
Our goal was to capture birds in flight and this meant using shutter speeds sometimes as fast as 1/8000 of a second.
Lilac breasted roller
Carmine bee-eater
Most of our time was spent waiting for the birds to fly and when they did, we often missed or got part bird shots. A sharp image of a carmine bee-eater and a lilac roller in mid-flight were lucky events.
We arrived back at camp at mid-day after six hours and were so grateful to Matt, our guide and driver who did such a marvellous job throughout the long session.
Welcoming back to camp
Communal centre
For the afternoon safari Barbara our co-host at the camp joined us for the 16:00 to 20:00 session.
The mid-afternoon temperature was high in the thirties and most animal life was hidden within the low bushes and dense undergrowth. A few birds such as starlings, grouse, spur-fowls, hornbills and weaverbirds were apparent but not much else.
Flood plains
Meves's starling
West African pipit
As the sun dropped in the sky and the intense heat diminished, a few new birds appeared and several herds of impala were now on the move.
Magpie shrike
Magpie shrike pair
Waterbuck
Waterbuck
Impala
We were delighted to photograph two European bee-eaters for an extended period watching them catch moths and flies on the wing using agile air-manoeuvring to collect their meal.
European bee-eater
European bee-eater
A dazzle of Burchell’s zebras meandered past our stationary truck over a period of twenty minutes seemingly unperturbed by our presence.
Burchell’s zebra
We then headed down to the small lake where we’d enjoyed ‘sundowners’ last night. It was now the bathing and drinking pool for eight elephants including one young calf who apparently delighted in rolling around underwater with his trunk upwards as a snorkel.
Elephants at waterhole
Baby elephant using trunk as a snorkel
At the pool’s edge was a large baboon and a beautifully plumed hededa ibis.
Baboon
Hadeda ibis
At 18:05 a message came through to Matt on the CB radio that a leopard had been sighted about ten minutes away, so without hesitation we moved to the designated site and found a leopard and her cub partially hidden in long grass under a fallen tree.
The female leopard then left her cub in a hidden spot and started moving off on the hunt. We followed her in the 4WD for the next fifty minutes taking numerous photos. The leopard ambled along through the thick undergrowth and Matt did an amazing job of keeping relatively close to her without impeding her progress. Needless to say, our cameras clicked vigorously for the hour’s encounter. We were so lucky as a leopard hasn’t been sighted by guests at the Khwai Camp for about five weeks!
Leopard
Leopard
Sunset
On return to the camp there were joyous celebrations and the staff members (16 of them) put on a dance and singing concert for us. It was so melodious and the performers seemed to be enjoying the concert as much as us.
Drinks around the fire at Pangolin Khwai Camp
Staff dancing for us at Pangolin Khwai Camp
The evening meal served tonight was a traditional Botswanan meal of slow cooked and pulled beef (11 hours cooking), polenta and local vegetables. The tender beef was served with a tomato and onion sauce; all very scrumptious.
Chef & waitresses
Dinner
Tomorrow we leave Pangolin Khwai Camp and we already know that we’ll leave with exceptionally happy memories of a truly delightful region of this fascinating country.